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Where is Saba?
Saba (pronounced
"SAY-ba") is the smallest island of the Dutch Caribbean, located at 17°38'N, 63°14'W. It consists largely
of the dormant volcano, Mount Scenery (877m), the highest point
of the Kingdom of the Netherlands.
Motto: "with oars and sails", figuratively:
"with all one's might".
Saba's Flag
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Saba has a land area of 13 km²
(5 sq. miles). At the 2001 Netherlands Antilles census, the population
was 1,349 inhabitants, which means a population density of 104
inhabitants per km². In 2004 the population was estimated
at 1,424 inhabitants.
Its current major settlements
include The Bottom, Windwardside, Hell's Gate and St. Johns. Despite
the island's Dutch affiliation, English is the principal language
spoken on the island and has been used in its school system since
1986. The Netherlands Antillean guilder is the official currency,
but the U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere on the island.
Saba is home to the Saba University
School of Medicine, which was established by American expatriates
in coordination with the Netherlands government. The school, currently
under expansion, adds over 300 residents when classes are in session,
and it is the prime educational attraction. A.M. Edwards Medical
Center is the major provider of healthcare for local residents.
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Landing at the Princess Juliana Airport
on St. Maarten (SXM)
Winair off-loads at the Juancho E. Yrausquin
Airport on Saba |
Getting
Here
Saba
is accessible by both air and sea and the gateway to Saba is St. Maarten.
By
Air:
From the U.S.:
American
Airlines , Continental
Airlines, US
Airways and United
Airlines have frequent scheduled services.
From the U.K. & Europe:
Air France
and KLM
fly to St. Maarten.
From St. Maarten:
Winair provides a daily service to Saba, which is a short
twenty minute flight.
By
Sea (From ST. Maarten):
There are two ferry
services that run regularly to Saba from St. Maarten. Click on the links
below to find out more!
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Island
History
1493 Columbus discovers Saba; except for the Carib Indians (who
may have lived here around AD 800) Saba was uninhabited.
1640
Dutch settlers arrived from St. Eustatius (Statia).
1816 The Dutch flag is raised after Saba had changed
hands 12 times whilst French, Dutch, English and Spanish had vied for
control.
1940's
Sabans are very proud and resourceful. In the early days settlers
carved 900 steps out of the mountainside to the “customs house”
to get from Fort Bay to the Bottom. Everything from the Queen of Holland
to pianos had to be carried up by hand. Those rugged steps were the only
way to transport goods to the Islanders. A more practical supply network
had to be arranged. Josephus Lambert Hassell, a carpenter who took correspondence
courses in engineering convinced Sabans and the Dutch authorities alike
that a road on Saba was not just the stuff of a madman's dreams... Known
as the "road that couldn't be built" (by Dutch Civil Engineers)
construction lasted 25 years as no automated or heavy machinery could
be used. Many of the people who worked on the construction are still resident
on Saba up to this day.
1980's
The Saba Marine and Conservation foundations are established
by renowned environmentalist Tom van't Hof.
With Marine & Conservation foundations in place tourism tentatively
crept onto the island.
Today Saba is renowned throughout the world for its unique
wildlife and pristine dive sites. The majority of the islanders today
come from a Caribbean, Dutch, English or Irish background. There is a
small expatriate population on the island who maintain second homes or
have set up dive or tourism related businesses.
The Kingdom of the Netherlands comprises three entities: Holland, the
Netherlands Antilles (Saba, St. Maarten, St. Eustatius, Bonaire, and Curaçao),
and Aruba. Saba's local administration supervises internal affairs and
has recently voted to have a direct representative in Holland. |
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Island
Nature
Aptly name the "Unspoiled
Queen of the Caribbean" Saba has a wealth of fauna & Flora.
I diverse environment that rises from arid plain like terrain to the
rainforest above... The most obvious of inhabitants are the Anole Lizards
and the tiny tree frogs that sing you to sleep at night.
Anolis Sabanus (endemic to Saba)
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Every October The
Sea & Learn programme brings experts from all over the world
to study Saba's unique habitat.
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Hiking
Saba is as beautiful
above the water as it is below. It offers many trails, both for beginners
and more experienced hikers, all reached by paths leading off from "The
Road." There's nothing more dramatic than the hike to the top of
Mount Scenery, a volcano that erupted 5,000 years ago. Allow at least
3 hours and take your time climbing the 1,064 sometimes-slippery chiseled-rock
and concrete steps up to the cloud-reefed, 857m (2,811-ft.) mountain.
You'll pass through a lush rainforest of palms, bromeliads, elephant
ears, heliconia, mountain raspberries, lianas, and tree ferns. On a
clear day, you can see the neighboring islands of St. Kitts, St. Eustatius,
St. Maarten, and even St. Barts. Ask your inn to pack you a picnic lunch,
and bring water. The higher you climb, the cooler it grows, about a
drop of about 1°F (.5°C) every 98m (321 ft.); on a hot day this
can be quite an incentive.
Other trails, like the Sandy Cruz, offer a less strenuous hike, taking
you through some of the most beautiful scenery that Saba has to offer!
Don't forget to let someone know where you're going if you decide to
Hike, a sturdy pair of boots and a stick is essential!
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Diving
The Saba National
Marine Park encompasses the waters and sea bed encircling Saba, Netherlands
Antilles from the high water mark to 200 feet (60 meters) deep. In total,
the marine park covers approximately five square miles (1300 hectares).
At the time of its creation in 1987, the government passed the Marine
Environment Ordinance to protect the coral reefs and other marine life
found in the park. The Saba Conservation Foundation manages the Saba
National Marine Park, as well as the island's hyperbaric facility and
natural sites on land.
Saba has healthy reefs formations
and, several natural formations attract divers to the marine park. A
few features were formed through volcanic activity, such as the Pinnacles.
These peaks rise up to 100 feet (30 meters) from the ocean floor, covered
with corals, sponges, and other invertebrates. In the Ladder Bay area,
a natural labyrinth was created by flowing lava. Other attractions include
underwater caves, tunnels, and rock walls.
Many different species of life inhabit the Saba National Marine Park.
Soft corals abound, while hard corals live only in the waters on the
island's east side. Types of fish found in the park include parrotfish,
blue tang, black durgon, and barracuda. Sharks and stingrays frequent
certain areas. Octopus, turtles, and spiny lobster make the park their
home also.
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Out
& About
On Saba, you are never at a loss for somewhere to eat. For an island of its size it is very well served for restaurants, many of which serve a special menu on particular days of the week. Below is a guide of some of the restaurants, listed alphabetically within location, along with a few of my personal thoughts.
Windwardside
The Brigadoon
I dined at this excellent restaurant on my first night on Saba, savouring the crab cakes followed by prime rib, and have been doing so regularly ever since. Owned by good friends and fellow divers, Michael and Trish Chamaa, (whilst visiting the restaurant, take the time to look at some of Michael’s sensational underwater photo’s or ask him to put on his slideshow), the restaurant is open every evening except Tuesday. The menu caters to carnivores, seafood lovers and vegetarians alike. Thursday is prime rib night (bookings required by 3pm); Saturday for sushi; and on Monday evenings, dining is preceded by a presentation at 5.30pm by Sea Saba entitled, ‘How to get more from your Saba experience’ - well worth going along to, irrespective of whether you are a diver or not. Open from 6.30pm, the Brigadoon also has a small bar for pre or apres dinner drinks.
The 'Chiney'
Every town, in every country, in all the world has to have one - and so we have ours (there's another one in The Bottom, equally as good, but this one‘s closer to The Anole!!). We’ve had some of our best nights on Saba either eating in the restaurant, or grabbing a carry-out from here. With satellite TV as a positive extra for the boys, eating here or drinking at the bar can be combined with watching the big fight or the big game; however, if getting away from it all is your idea then there are tables well away from the TV or… you could always retire to The Anole with your carryout.
Restaurant Eden
Located in Lambee’s Place, named after former resident Josephus Lambert Hassell (aka ‘Lambee’), the visionary who built Saba’s ‘Road that could not be built’, the restaurant may be found above the Sea Saba shop. Restaurant Eden is open for dinner every day except Tuesday. The restaurant is owned by Nina and Norbert: Nina running the ‘front of house’ whilst Norbert drives the kitchen – they will always do all they can to provide you with great food in a secluded tropical setting. For starters, try the Foie Gras or Beef Carpaccio; follow this with fresh Mahi Mahi or a rich and creamy risotto; and complete your meal with a home made ice cream such as strawberry and balsamic vinegar (yes, balsamic vinegar – and it’s delicious). Orders are taken from 5.30pm to 9.30pm.
Saba's Treasure
Owned by Commissioner Chris Johnson and run by his cousin Greg Johnson, Saba’s Treasure is the place on Saba for pizza: small, medium or large pizza’s can be enjoyed on the premises or… you could always retire to The Anole with your carryout! The interior was designed by the renowned local artist Robbie Lynn and, on entering the restaurant, you could be forgiven for thinking that you had stepped back in time, having walked into a 19th century Saban pub. Both bar and restaurant are frequented by locals and tourists alike. The bar / restaurant is open every day except Sunday, between 11.30am and 9.30pm; Sunday 4pm to 9pm. In addition to pizzas, the restaurant also offers an excellent pub food menu - their burgers, in particular, are well worth a try. Good sounds too.
The Swinging Doors
Speaking of institutions, Swinging Doors certainly is legendary - not only on Saba but also throughout the neighbouring islands. Owned and run by very good friends Eddie and Pat Hassell (I would swear that there is not a topic in the world on which Eddie does not have either an amusing story or a well argued opinion; and Pat can always be relied upon to provide straightforward advice and information), ‘the Doors’ has a unique atmosphere, created for the most part by its aforesaid larger than life owners. Only two types of music are played here: Country and Western!! Resembling an old western saloon, its interior is adorned with a plethora of articles and artefacts donated by its loving and faithful patrons, including moose heads, football shirts, signed banknotes and a collection of car number plates from around the world. Swinging Doors is open 7 days a week as a bar and on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday evenings it also becomes one of the best value restaurants on the island. Tuesday and Friday nights are Barbecue Nights were Eddie cooks excellent ribs and chicken over an open charcoal fire. USD 10.00 for ribs, chicken or a combo including sides; Sunday night is Steak Night. USD 16.00 for a huge rib eye steak, baked potato with butter and sour cream and side salad.Eat at ’the Doors’ or… you could always retire to The Anole with your carryout!!! Reservations strongly recommended Tuesday, Friday and Sunday.
Tropics Cafe
Owned by Wim and Johanna Schutten, Tropics is attached to Juliana’s Hotel and provides excellent food at reasonable prices. Indoor and outdoor seating are seamlessly integrated so that wherever you eat you have views of the pool, tropical gardens and the ocean, or… you could always retire to The Anole with your carryout!!!! Tropics serves, in my opinion, the best burgers on the island, which therefore makes it difficult for me to comment on much of the rest of the menu!!; however I can also recommend the burritos and the sandwiches. On Friday evenings you can combine your love of burgers with catching one of the latest movie releases when Wim and Joanna offer burger and movie, all for USD 15.00. Open for breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. till your done!! Closed on Mondays except for resident breakfasts.
Outskirts of Windwardside
The Rainforest Restaurant
Located a short walk through the rainforest, at the end of the Mountain Road, the Rainforest Restaurant forms a part of the Ecolodge Hotel and is owned by Tom and Heleen van’t Hof. Heleen is a famous local artist and Tom was instrumental in founding the marine parks on both Saba and Bonaire - I heartily recommend attending Tom's Wednesday night slide show and presentation at 5.30pm - you'll enjoy your visit all the more for knowing a little about the island’s geography and nature. So, to eating: I guarantee you will not be disappointed by the food here. Many of the ingredients are organically grown in-house and those that are not are well scrutinused. The excellent chef Berndt currently offers dishes from all quarters of the earth; and the portions are very generous - I‘ve yet to leave here without carrying a doggy bag!! Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Closed on Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended for dinner. Indonesian Buffet on Tuesdays.
Fort Bay
Pop’s Place
If you want to really experience local life and pick up the colour of Saba, then come and visit Pop’s Place, in the harbour. No longer run by great friends Shugie and Elvira – but once again open air (after a dreadful period of being enclosed and air-conditioned!). As the only historical lifeline into and out of Saba, the Fort Bay is, intermittently, the busiest place on the island. And what better place to watch the Saban world go by than ‘sucking on a cold one’ and shooting the breeze with fishermen, divers, locals and other tourists at Pop’s, or… you could always retire to The Anole with your carryout!!!!! Open daily from 11.30am ‘til they close!!! Sundays are a big ‘locals’ day‘ down at the harbour: it‘s great fun with lots of families out, kids in the harbour, a bar-b-q smoking, and boats coming and going.
The Bottom
King’s Crown, Queens Gardens
As you would expect from the restaurant of a 5* resort, the surroundings are beautiful and I’ve had some great meals here. Queens Gardens is located a 10 minute walk from The Bottom at the end of the Sandy Cruz trail and unless you are having a ‘pit-stop’ after hiking the trail, it’s advisable to book a taxi to and from Queens Gardens. Claire and Hidder took over management of the hotel in 2009 and run an exceedingly tight ship with a very light touch. The current chef and kitchen staff provide excellent international cuisine, which can be complemented with a fine selection of wines. The bar and waiting staff are efficient, friendly and always prepared to go the extra mile. Look out for ‘Special Sundays’ when Claire and Hidder bring in a piano bar singer from St Maarten, the US or Canada and put on a special menu such as fresh oysters or porterhouse steaks. These Sundays start early and finish late – a great Saban party!! Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The Saba Coffee House
Saba Coffee House is THE place to go for terrific local coffee, fresh baked pastries, bistro style lunches (panini sandwiches, salads, soups) and much more!!! Need a refreshing pick me up? Cappuccinos, lattes, mochas, smoothies, chai, frozen drinks, beer, wine, rum and more!!! With over 15 years of cafe experience, Cory and Kali offer a modern cafe with Saban accents. A relaxing atmosphere in a convenient location with great views awaits you...
All of the above restaurants accept US Dollars. At time of writing, the following also accept Visa and Mastercard: Brigadoon, Restaurant Eden, Tropics Café, The Rainforest Restaurant and Queens Gardens.
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