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Where is Saba?
Saba (pronounced
"SAY-ba") is the smallest island of the Netherlands
Antilles, located at 17°38'N, 63°14'W. It consists largely
of the dormant volcano, Mount Scenery (877m), the highest point
of the Kingdom of the Netherlands.
Motto: "with oars and sails", figuratively:
"with all one's might".
Saba's Flag
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Saba has a land area of 13 km²
(5 sq. miles). At the 2001 Netherlands Antilles census, the population
was 1,349 inhabitants, which means a population density of 104
inhabitants per km². In 2004 the population was estimated
at 1,424 inhabitants.
Its current major settlements
include The Bottom, Windwardside, Hell's Gate and St. Johns. Despite
the island's Dutch affiliation, English is the principal language
spoken on the island and has been used in its school system since
1986. The Netherlands Antillean guilder is the official currency,
but the U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere on the island.
Saba is home to the Saba University
School of Medicine, which was established by American expatriates
in coordination with the Netherlands government. The school, currently
under expansion, adds over 300 residents when classes are in session,
and it is the prime educational attraction. A.M. Edwards Medical
Center is the major provider of healthcare for local residents.
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Landing at the Princess Juliana Airport
on St. Maarten (SXM)
Winair off-loads at the Juancho E. Yrausquin
Airport on Saba |
Getting
Here
Saba
is accessible by both air and sea and the gateway to Saba is St. Maarten.
By
Air:
From the U.S.:
American
Airlines , Continental
Airlines, US
Airways and United
Airlines have frequent scheduled services.
From the U.K. & Europe:
Air France
and KLM
fly to St. Maarten.
From St. Maarten:
Winair provides a daily service to Saba, which is a short
twenty minute flight.
By
Sea (From ST. Maarten):
There are two ferry
services that run regularly to Saba from St. Maarten. Click on the links
below to find out more!
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Island
History
1493 Columbus discovers Saba; except for the Carib Indians (who
may have lived here around AD 800) Saba was uninhabited.
1640
Dutch settlers arrived from St. Eustatius (Statia).
1816 The Dutch flag is raised after Saba had changed
hands 12 times whilst French, Dutch, English and Spanish had vied for
control.
1940's
Sabans are very proud and resourceful. In the early days settlers
carved 900 steps out of the mountainside to the “customs house”
to get from Fort Bay to the Bottom. Everything from the Queen of Holland
to pianos had to be carried up by hand. Those rugged steps were the only
way to transport goods to the Islanders. A more practical supply network
had to be arranged. Josephus Lambert Hassell, a carpenter who took correspondence
courses in engineering convinced Sabans and the Dutch authorities alike
that a road on Saba was not just the stuff of a madman's dreams... Known
as the "road that couldn't be built" (by Dutch Civil Engineers)
construction lasted 25 years as no automated or heavy machinery could
be used. Many of the people who worked on the construction are still resident
on Saba up to this day.
1980's
The Saba Marine and Conservation foundations are established
by renowned environmentalist Tom van't Hof.
With Marine & Conservation foundations in place tourism tentatively
crept onto the island.
Today Saba is renowned throughout the world for its unique
wildlife and pristine dive sites. The majority of the islanders today
come from a Caribbean, Dutch, English or Irish background. There is a
small expatriate population on the island who maintain second homes or
have set up dive or tourism related businesses.
The Kingdom of the Netherlands comprises three entities: Holland, the
Netherlands Antilles (Saba, St. Maarten, St. Eustatius, Bonaire, and Curaçao),
and Aruba. Saba's local administration supervises internal affairs and
has recently voted to have a direct representative in Holland. |
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Island
Nature
Aptly name the "Unspoiled
Queen of the Caribbean" Saba has a wealth of fauna & Flora.
I diverse environment that rises from arid plain like terrain to the
rainforest above... The most obvious of inhabitants are the Anole Lizards
and the tiny tree frogs that sing you to sleep at night.
Anolis Sabanus (endemic to Saba)
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Every October The
Sea & Learn programme brings experts from all over the world
to study Saba's unique habitat. |
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Hiking
Saba is as beautiful
above the water as it is below. It offers many trails, both for beginners
and more experienced hikers, all reached by paths leading off from "The
Road." There's nothing more dramatic than the hike to the top of
Mount Scenery, a volcano that erupted 5,000 years ago. Allow at least
3 hours and take your time climbing the 1,064 sometimes-slippery chiseled-rock
and concrete steps up to the cloud-reefed, 857m (2,811-ft.) mountain.
You'll pass through a lush rainforest of palms, bromeliads, elephant
ears, heliconia, mountain raspberries, lianas, and tree ferns. On a
clear day, you can see the neighboring islands of St. Kitts, St. Eustatius,
St. Maarten, and even St. Barts. Ask your inn to pack you a picnic lunch,
and bring water. The higher you climb, the cooler it grows, about a
drop of about 1°F (.5°C) every 98m (321 ft.); on a hot day this
can be quite an incentive.
Other trails, like the Sandy Cruz, offer a less strenuous hike, taking
you through some of the most beautiful scenery that Saba has to offer!
Don't forget to let someone know where you're going if you decide to
Hike, a sturdy pair of boots and a stick is essential!
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Diving
The Saba National
Marine Park encompasses the waters and sea bed encircling Saba, Netherlands
Antilles from the high water mark to 200 feet (60 meters) deep. In total,
the marine park covers approximately five square miles (1300 hectares).
At the time of its creation in 1987, the government passed the Marine
Environment Ordinance to protect the coral reefs and other marine life
found in the park. The Saba Conservation Foundation manages the Saba
National Marine Park, as well as the island's hyperbaric facility and
natural sites on land.
Saba has healthy reefs formations
and, several natural formations attract divers to the marine park. A
few features were formed through volcanic activity, such as the Pinnacles.
These peaks rise up to 100 feet (30 meters) from the ocean floor, covered
with corals, sponges, and other invertebrates. In the Ladder Bay area,
a natural labyrinth was created by flowing lava. Other attractions include
underwater caves, tunnels, and rock walls.
Many different species of life inhabit the Saba National Marine Park.
Soft corals abound, while hard corals live only in the waters on the
island's east side. Types of fish found in the park include parrotfish,
blue tang, black durgon, and barracuda. Sharks and stingrays frequent
certain areas. Octopus, turtles, and spiny lobster make the park their
home also.
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Out
& Aboutg
On Saba, you are never at a loss for somewhere to eat. For an island of
its size it is very well served for restaurants, many of which serve a
special menu on particular days of the week. Below is a guide of some
of the restaurants, listed alphabetically within location, along with
a few of my personal thoughts.
Windwardside
The Brigadoon
I dined at this excellent restaurant on my first night on Saba, savouring
the crab cakes followed by prime rib, and have been doing so regularly
ever since. Owned by good friends and fellow divers, Michael and Trish
Chamaa, (whilst visiting the restaurant, take the time to look at some
of Michael’s sensational underwater photo’s or ask him to
put on his slideshow), the restaurant is open every evening except Tuesday.
The menu caters to carnivores, seafood lovers and vegetarians alike. Thursday
is prime rib night (bookings required by 3pm); Saturday for sushi; and
on Monday evenings, dining is preceded by a presentation at 5.30pm by
Sea Saba entitled, ‘How to get more from your Saba experience’
- well worth going along to, irrespective of whether you are a diver or
not. Open from 6.30pm, the Brigadoon also has a small bar for pre or apres
dinner drinks.
The
'Chiney'
Every town, in every country, in all the world has to have one - and so
we have ours (there's another one in The Bottom, equally as good, but
this one‘s closer to The Anole!!). We’ve had some of our best
nights on Saba either eating in the restaurant, or grabbing a carry-out
from here. With satellite TV as a positive extra for the boys, eating
here or drinking at the bar can be combined with watching the big fight
or the big game; however, if getting away from it all is your idea then
there are tables well away from the TV or… you could always retire
to The Anole with your carryout.
My Kitchen
Located in Lambee’s Place, named after
former resident Josephus Lambert Hassell (aka ‘Lambee’), the
visionary who built Saba’s ‘Road that could not be built’,
the restaurant may be found above the Sea Saba shop. My Kitchen is open
for lunch and dinner every day except Sunday. Owner Willem is always welcoming
and chef Vic, one of our best Sabian friends (although he’s from
Dominica), will do all they can to provide you with great food in a secluded
tropical setting. At lunchtime enjoy freshly prepared fare including home-made
burgers or salad nicoise; in the evening, daily specials are complimented
by a varied a la carte menu including beef tenderloin, lamb chops, grouper
and mahi-mahi. Orders are taken from 12 noon until 2pm and from 6pm to
8.30pm.
Saba's Treasure
Owned by Commissioner Chris Johnson and his wife Marvi, Saba’s Treasure
is the place on Saba for pizza: small, medium or large pizza’s can
be enjoyed on the premises or… you could always retire to The Anole
with your carryout! The interior was designed by the renowned local artist
Robbie Lynn and, on entering the restaurant, you could be forgiven for
thinking that you had stepped back in time, having walked into a 19th
century Saban pub. Both bar and restaurant are frequented by locals and
tourists alike. The bar / restaurant is open every day except Sunday,
between 10.30am and 9.30pm. In addition to pizzas, the restaurant also
offers an excellent pub food menu - their sandwiches, in particular, are
well worth a try. Good sounds too.
Scout's Place
Scout's Place hotel and restaurant are owned by Wolfgang and Barbara Tooten.
The restaurant is open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Chef TJ and his fantastic staff can conjure up anything from bar snacks
(the fish balls are a treat) to a 3 or 4 course lunch or dinner. The menu
is eclectic, including both International and Caribbean cuisine. At the
time of writing, spit-roasted chicken with garlic mashed potatoes can
be enjoyed on Tuesdays and Thursdays; gyros (kebab) on Wednesdays; and
fresh mussels on Sundays. Two terraces with stunning views of Saba and
the ocean, plus an indoor dining room mean that dining at Scouts can be
enjoyed whatever the weather, or… you could always retire to The
Anole with your carryout!! On Friday evenings, why not join other tourists
and most of the locals at ‘Sabaoke’ - Saba’s own karaoke
night, hosted by the legendary Wolfie (well that’s what he tells
me!!); the evening has become a Saban institution.
The Swinging Doors
Speaking of institutions, Swinging Doors certainly is legendary - not
only on Saba but also throughout the neighbouring islands. Owned and run
by very good friends Eddie and Pat Hassell (I would swear that there is
not a topic in the world on which Eddie does not have either an amusing
story or a well argued opinion; and Pat can always be relied upon to provide
straightforward advice and information), ‘the Doors’ has a
unique atmosphere, created for the most part by its aforesaid larger than
life owners. Only two types of music are played here: Country and Western!!
Resembling an old western saloon, its interior is adorned with a plethora
of articles and artefacts donated by its loving and faithful patrons,
including moose heads, football shirts, signed banknotes and a collection
of car number plates from around the world. Swinging Doors is open 7 days
a week as a bar and on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday evenings it also becomes
one of the best value restaurants on the island. Tuesday and Friday nights
are Barbecue Nights were Eddie cooks excellent ribs and chicken over an
open charcoal fire. USD 10.00 for ribs, chicken or a combo including sides;
Sunday night is Steak Night. USD 16.00 for a huge rib eye steak, baked
potato with butter and sour cream and side salad.Eat at ’the Doors’
or… you could always retire to The Anole with your carryout!!! Reservations
strongly recommended Tuesday, Friday and Sunday.
Tropics Cafe
Owned by Wim and Johanna Schutten, Tropics is attached to Juliana’s
Hotel and provides excellent food at reasonable prices. Indoor and outdoor
seating are seamlessly integrated so that wherever you eat you have views
of the pool, tropical gardens and the ocean, or… you could always
retire to The Anole with your carryout!!!! Tropics serves, in my opinion,
the best burgers on the island, which therefore makes it difficult for
me to comment on much of the rest of the menu!!; however I can also recommend
the burritos and the sandwiches. On Friday evenings you can combine your
love of burgers with catching one of the latest movie releases when Wim
and Joanna offer burger and movie, all for USD 10.00. Open for breakfast,
lunch, and dinner from 7 a.m. till late at night. Closed Monday’s
for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended for dinner.
Outskirts of Windwardside
The Rainforest Restaurant
Located
a short walk through the rainforest, at the end of the Mountain Road,
the Rainforest Restaurant forms a part of the Ecolodge Hotel and is owned
by Tom and Heleen van’t Hof. Heleen is a famous local artist and
Tom was instrumental in founding the marine parks on both Saba and Bonaire
- I heartily recommend attending Tom's Wednesday night slide show and
presentation at 5.30pm - you'll enjoy your visit all the more for knowing
a little about the island’s geography and nature. So, to eating:
I guarantee you will not be disappointed by the food here. Many of the
ingredients are organically grown in-house and those that are not are
well scrutinused. The excellent chef Berndt currently offers dishes from
all quarters of the earth; and the portions are very generous - I‘ve
yet to leave here without carrying a doggy bag!! Open for breakfast, lunch
and dinner. Closed on Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended
for dinner. Indonesian Buffet on Tuesdays.
Hell's
Gate
The Gate House
Situated at a high elevation with views over the famous Saban airport
runway (at 400 yards, the shortest commercial runway in the world) and
out to St Barts, and Statia, The Gate House offers French and Caribbean
cuisine of the highest standards. The restaurant also boasts the most
extensive wine list on the island and has regularly won the top award
with the Wine Spectator magazine. The owners, Michel and Lyliane, run
the restaurant in a traditional French style, with Michel performing culinary
art in the kitchen and Lyliane attending to your every need front of house.
I particularly enjoy going there for Sunday lunch and I generally encourage
Lyliane to choose wines to accompany the meal. Whilst the restaurant is
open daily, it is generally advisable to make a reservation.
Fort Bay
Pop’s
Place
If you want to really experience local life and pick up the colour of
Saba, then come and visit great friends Shugie and Elvira at Pop’s
Place, in the harbour. As the only historical lifeline into and out of
Saba, the Fort Bay is, intermittently, the busiest place on the island.
And what better place to watch the Saban world go by than ‘sucking
on a cold one’ and shooting the breeze with fishermen, divers, locals
and other tourists at Pop’s, or… you could always retire to
The Anole with your carryout!!!!! Best lobster sandwich on the island
(and probably the cheapest) Open daily from 11.30am ‘til they close!!!
Closed Mondays & Tuesdays. Sundays are a big ‘locals’
day‘ down at the harbour: it‘s great fun with lots of families
out, kids in the harbour, a bar-b-q smoking, and boats coming and going.
(Shugie and Elvira are believed to be leaving at end 2007 but Pop’s
will continue with new management - more to follow).
The Bottom
King’s Crown, Queens Gardens
As you would expect from the restaurant of a 5* resort, the surroundings
are beautiful and I’ve had some great meals here. Queens Gardens
is located a 10 minute walk from The Bottom at the end of the Sandy Cruz
trail and unless you are having a ‘pit-stop’ after hiking
the trail, it’s advisable to book a taxi to and from Queens Gardens.
I have to admit that I haven’t dined there since a changeover in
management and chef, however, all the reports that I’ve heard have
been excellent - I believe that the new chef was formerly at a European
Michelin starred restaurant, which generally bodes well. Open every day
for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
All of the above restaurants accept US Dollars and Netherlands Antilles
Guilders. At time of writing, the following also accept Visa and Mastercard:
Brigadoon, My Kitchen, Scouts Place, Tropics Café, The Rainforest
Restaurant, The Gate House, and Queens Gardens. |
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